Favas on Santorini

Fava on the Greek volcanic island of Santorini is made from the Lathyrus clymenum, a local variety of yellow pea. It should not be confused with what we know as fava beans. Remember, in Latin fava simply means '(any) bean'

According to archaeological finds from the Bronze Age city of Akrotiri, the fava plant has grown consistently and exclusively on the island for more than 3,500 years. In clay pots, unearthed during excavations at the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri, which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption sometime between 1570 and 1525 BC, were found to contain residues of fava, whose genetic material was identical to the fava cultivated today at Santorini.

For more than 3,500 years residents of Santorini and some neighbouring islands have been cultivating the legume. Elsewhere in the Mediterranean it is only known as a wild plant.

The peculiar ecosystem that was created by the volcanic eruptions of Santorini, the volcanic ash, the cellular soil, and the combination of humidity created by the sea and the drought, make the bean a unique resource. When weather conditions are favourable farmers on the island can reap about 800 kilos of beans per hectare. Today, about 200 growers cultivate favas on the island. The low yield per hectare, but also the labour-intensive method of threshing as well as the processing and conservation, elevate its costs.

The peas are processed according to traditional methods: ground with stone mills, matured in kanaves (the island's typical underground storerooms, cut into the volcanic rock), and dried in the hot Aegean sun, resulting in a highly distinctive flavour.

It is a vulnerable crop and it can easily be damaged by strong winds that might blow away its delicate flowers before they can yield the pea, by prolonged drought or by a sudden heat wave.

The Santorini fava is known for its velvet texture and sweet, earthy taste. The peas are used to prepare a Greek dish called fava santorinis that is traditionally eaten warm, as an appetizer or as a puree accompanying a main course of meat or fish.